Wednesday, September 7.  Wifi at last. I'm no expert, but withdrawal from wifi has got to be tougher than withdrawal from crack.

Way back 100 years ago on Friday, September 2 we left Wallowa State Park. But not before another excellent home cooked meal the night before.

We THOUGHT we would travel via Idaho, but decided instead on a route through eastern Washington State and on to Bigfork Montana, via Missoula. Traveling in Washington, we were REALLY out in the country. Lots of dramatic views of the Grande Ronde River and its valleys, lots of agricultural land, lots of forgotten towns and forgotten homesteads.

House in Anatone, Washington

Homestead in rural eastern Washington

We were following a route through Nez Perce country -- places where the tribe lived for centuries, and part of the route of their sad retreat toward Canada, with the U.S. Cavalry in hot pursuit. If you're interested in the history of our relationship with Native Americans, look up Chief Joseph.

We made it from Wallowa to Bigfork in one 12 hour day of driving, arriving Friday night at the home of Jules and Art, a delightful couple who were housing Sarah in their guest room while she volunteered at the Crown of the Continent Guitar Workshop and Festival.  Jules and Art had kindly arranged for us to park our rig next door to them during our stay. No photos of Jules and Art yet, but we'll see them again.

When Sarah says "There's an event coming up that I think you might like," we usually come running if we can. The Crown was definitely one of those unforgettable experiences in which Sarah has landed us.  It's a week long event geared toward teaching and promoting the next generation of virtuoso guitar players. Early in the week there are workshops for students ranging from beginners to very advanced players taking masters classes from some of the best teachers and players in the country. At the end of the week there are performances, culminating with the Finale. The Crown is staged at a dude ranch on the banks of Flathead Lake in Bigfork.

Kate, Sarah and I signed up to be ushers for the finale. We got cool t-shirts and hats, impressive credentials on lanyards, and three meals a day -- all free.

Before the performance began, we visited a friend of Sarah's. Alex is the wife of Tim, one of the featured performers, and also has three kids aged 9 to 12 who were student-performers. Alex had volunteered to be in charge of food for staff and volunteers. None of the other volunteers showed up, so Alex was doing the shopping, prep, cooking, and cleanup by herself for 70 people, three meals a day in her tiny apartment kitchen. Naturally we  (especially Kate) jumped in to help.

So while Kate helped make dinner, Sarah and I got started with ushering. My job was to stand in the aisle of the performance tent and block people from getting to the good seats in front, which were reserved for sponsors and bigwigs. I failed utterly. Early in the performance there was an ambiguous announcement from the stage. All the hoi polloi assumed they could now move up to the good seats -- so they did -- streaming by me as if I didn't exist.  Another career down the drain.

The Finale was out of this world. I feel like I need a thesaurus. I keep saying everything is "fantastic," "unbelievable," "gorgeous."  I sound like Donald Trump.  Nonetheless, the finale was all of the above. Eight straight hours of performers, probably 50 or more in all, who were, um, unbelievable. All were virtuosos of the guitar. Each time an act would perform, we'd think: "That has the be the best of the best -- no one could be better." Then the next act would perform, and we'd say it all over again.  Some of them were famous -- even WE had heard of them. Jim Messina (Loggins & Messina, Buffalo Springfield, etc.), Dweezil Zappa (Sarah took a master's class from him). Most we had never heard of. The Star of Stars was a  guy who wasn't even on the program named Solomon Hicks. A guy named Gonzalo from Argentina was, well, unbelievable. Here's the only video I could get (I was supposed to be in charge of not letting people take videos). Dweezil is on the right.

In years past there were also well known stars at the festival, and others not known to us but no doubt virtuosos all. 

Sunday we helped clean up after the festival, and then were treated to the volunteer appreciation party. Good catered food at a local resort, and some of the most incredible, most unbelievable performers performed all over again -- just for us.

Monday we moved on to Glacier National Park.

Dare I say, unbelievable.

Yesterday we stayed in a campsite inside the park and hiked around Lake McDonald.

I was well equipped and proficient.

Last night, in a rare turn of events, it was my turn to choose the overnight venue. I picked the luxurious KOA camp just outside the park. Dinner by Gene.

Steak and ribs by Gene.

Gene.

Gene is one of many people we've already encountered who live unconventional lives. As far as I can figure out, he runs a transportation business in Phoenix from his trailer here in Montana where he cooks dinners at the KOA resort. He seems to have a few other irons in the fire as well.

Now we leave wifi land and head for the east side of Glacier National Park. I'm bracing for it.